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Cruising Islas Canarias Jan '01
with Greencoasts Charter
In the beginning.... the known world ended at the Canary Islands and were used by Christopher Columbus as his launching pad for his trips to explore the New World discovered by him. In more recent times, the ARC (Atlantic Rally Crossing) starts from there each November.
Our (Greencoasts Charter) proposed trip was much more modest - the plan was to get to as many of the Western Canary Isles as possible in 7 days ( Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro). Our group of 14 consisted of 2 ISA/RYA Yachtmaster Instructors, Egon Friedrich and myself, Charlie Kavanagh, the others with a range of experience from serious racing/ cruising sailors to novices well balanced throughout the 12 crew. The boats we used from Club Sail on La Gomera, were a Feeling 451("Ace of Clubs") with 8 berths and a Jeanneau 34.2 ("Mermaid") with 6 berths skippered by myself and Egon respectively. The Charter price (Low Season) for each was "Ace" 495000 Ptas (IR£2350/€2945) and "Mermaid" 350000 Ptas (IR£1660/€2080).
As our schedule was to pick the boats up on Saturday 6th Jan 2001, we were still in the Christmas peak travel window for Charter flights (IR£300/€380), so we had to book flights with accommodation (not used) to get out to Tenerife (the neighbouring island to La Gomera). The high speed ferry, (which we had booked in advance on the internet at a saving of 20% on the fares (IR£13/€16)) got us to San Sebastien where we picked up the boats from Andy Williams of Club Sail. After a thorough handover, berths were allocated, gear stowed, provisions bought and crews were briefed about our proposed plans for the rest of the day and subsequent week.
As it was now early afternoon, there was a very fresh Northerly blowing outside and as most people had not sailed since the summer, it was felt prudent to go for a reasonably short shake down sail, to help give everyone their sea legs. Rather than risk going downwind in a heavy rolling sea to the next port on La Gomera, we decided to return to Tenerife, about 18 NM to the small port of Los Gigantes, sailing on a close to beam reach across the channel. In keeping with the strong wind, harnesses/lifejackets were broken out, we put in 3 reefs in both mains and only rolled out about 1/3rd of the Genoa's before leaving the shelter of the harbour. Once we stuck our noses out, our precautions were well advised as the boats were well heeled and making 6 to 7 knots to windward in a heavy sea, giving the jockeys on board an exciting introduction to the open Atlantic sailing conditions often experienced around the Canary Islands. Not so for all though, some crew members of both boats suffered mal de mer and the conditions were not at all to their liking, needless to say. Imelda on "Mermaid" was particularly badly hit and unable to function, taking refuge in her bunk and wondering why she allowed herself come sailing no doubt.
"Just(yna) give me a breeze and a good rolling sea"
Through all the spray, Mount Tiede on Tenerife, (Spains highest mountain), looked spectacular rising majestically above the clouds as we progressed. About 2/3rds of the way across, the winds eased and shortly after letting out full sail again, we had to switch our engines on to keep up speed to make landfall before dark. Then my VHF radio cackled into life with some bad news from "Mermaid". Egon informed me that he had a fuel blockage and due to the swell, was unable to troubleshoot it effectively, and needed a tow, as the wind had by now all but disappeared. Having briefed both crews, we effected the manoeuvre safely and took them in tow making about 3/3.5 knots. As luck would have it, when we were about 2 miles from Los Gigantes, a head wind came up to slow our progress down to 1 knot (due to the confused sea state acting as a brake on our forward motion). Daylight was fast disappearing and we strained to find our harbour lights against the myriad of tourist resort lights close by. Eventually we identified the harbour but got a shock as we closed it... large rollers were breaking at the entrance, making it impossible to consider entering under tow.
We really only had one option and that was to continue under tow to Los Christianos, 15 NM SE from there and a night passage. So much for our short shakedown. We eventually dropped anchor about 03.00 on the 7th in comfortable berths. Next morning, Andy and Neil from Club Sail came over by fast motor cruiser to try to sort out "Mermaid's" problem and found a fuel pipe blocked by some sort of bug, which was rectified and we were off again. They kindly paid for an overnight berth at Los Gigantes for both boats, so it was retrace the previous nights steps and this time we succeeded in gaining entrance. Needless to say, both crews were delighted to set foot on terra firma 28 hours later and a good night was had by all, especially birthday boy, Mark, who painted the town every colour of the rainbow!!!
Monday 8th, we awoke to a light westerly breeze, sore heads were in abundance and decisions had to be made. Our proposed destination of La Palma was 70 NM to windward and with light contrary winds, another very long day & night was in prospect, so the consensus was to stay closer to home by cruising around the island of Tenerife. We set off in very pleasant sunshine and light winds with the aim of making it around to Santa Cruz de Tenerife southabout. Our boat, "Ace of Clubs" had sussed a very interesting looking anchorage en route at a place called Baya d'Abona, which we decided to make for. Egon's crew fancied the more urbane bright lights (and showers!!) of Santa Cruz, about 25 NM further on. Our decision was rewarded by an absolutely beautiful sunset and evening at anchor, after which we ventured ashore to explore the small rural village about a mile from the beach. We sampled various tapas (typical Spanish small hot snacks) while we sipped beer in the only taverna prior to dining on delicious local fish in the only restaurant, before heading back for a slightly inebriated moonlight row back to "Ace".
Enjoying a dip in the pleasant waters of the Canaries
After an early morning swim, we had a leisurely cruise, spotting some of the exotic "birdlife" posing in various states of undress along parts of the shoreline "for" our weary travelers!!! We rendezvoused with "Mermaids" crew at Marina Atlantico, right in the heart of Santa Cruz, before exploring ashore in the Capital of the Western Canary Islands. A local Irish ex-pat, Barbara Murray, who is married to local resident, Cote Abasola, with three children, took both crews on a gastronomic pilgrimage to the local port of San Andreas, where we were introduced to their friends Pico and his girlfriends' new fish restaurant "Los Calamares". Between numerous shared starters, mouth watering main courses, desserts and wine, beer and liqueurs galore, a veritable feast was enjoyed by one and all for the princely sum of c.IR£25.00/€32.00 per person (which included meals for Barbara and Cote) - definitely the culinary highlight of our trip. A very late night was subsequently had by many of the holiday makers, some only just about making it aboard for the 07.00 start next morning, as we had about 70 NM to travel to get northabout back around to the western side of Tenerife again..
With all the sore heads, the boats were taken out with skeleton crews topside, but what a reward they got. We left Santa Cruz behind motoring in tandem into a spectacular sunrise, which turned the flat sea to a golden hue. As we approached the NE corner, the scenery, to say the least, was awesome. There is a huge contrast between the North and South of Tenerife, which is most noticeable from seaward. Arid and sparsely vegetated in the South (apart from the well irrigated market gardens) the contrasting lush green mountainous terrain of the north is a joy to behold. Mount Tiede effectively divides the island in two, showering rain on its northern slopes and creating a barrier to the rain for its southern slopes (hence the proliferation of noisy holiday resorts along the SW shores). Enjoying the fabulous views all along the northern flanks of Tenerife, always topped by the towering volcano of Tiede, we made progress motor sailing towards Los Gigantes (yes, again!), because there was a 2m NW swell running there was no other safe anchorage or port available for an overnight stop, so we had only one realistic option - L. G.
Pilot Whales off the coast of SW Tenerife
Thursday morning 11th, we awoke to a fresh breeze, something we hadn't enjoyed since our first day, so we looked forward to our last full day aboard under sail before having to hand over the boats. This time everyone had their sea legs and we had great fun going through sail training routines (at last!) as we crossed the channel back towards La Gomera. As we approached our agreed lunch stop anchorage, we deemed it prudent to approach under power as the winds coming down off the mountains were very fluky, and switched on the engine and stowed the mainsail. To our horror, our gear shift would not engage the engine in gear so we aborted the anchoring manoeuvre and set sail again. When we appraised Egon on "Mermaid" of our predicament, it was decided to make for San Sebastien and then take her home under tow from the harbour entrance (a little earlier than planned).
Safely berthed, we ventured ashore and by chance met another crew of Irish sailors (charter boat was based on Gran Canaria) in the Club Nautico bar/restaurant, built into the volcanic rock formation making a very unusual backdrop while we sipped our beers. Later, we had our final crew meal together in a seafood restaurant close to the Marina, before winding down with a nightcap. Next morning saw both crews cleaning their boats, before departing on the ferry back to Tenerife and then airborne back to the Emerald Isle. (One of our proposed crew, Seamus O Hickey, had had the misfortune to break his hip on the ice the week prior to departure missing his dream trip and all our best wishes went out to him for a speedy recovery).
For a video clip of Dolphins, click here.
For an account of a Trip in Croatia click here
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